The importance of including hyaluronic acid (HA) as a cosmetic ingredient in skin care formulations has recently become apparent, as the amount of HA naturally found in the epidermis decreases with age and when applied to the skin through cosmetic products, it provides hydration and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Currently, the variety of cosmetic products for mature skin and the use of diverse and innovative active ingredients that support their anti-aging effect are full proof that the cosmetic industry is currently relying on these active ingredients. The main objective of this study was to develop an anti-aging formulation, containing HA and various other active ingredients. The developed formulation contains a new combination of natural waxes that play a fundamental role in the repair of the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier and, in combination with innovative active ingredients – such as low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA), sodium hyaluronate (NaHA), ectoine, gold and an anti-aging botanical complex – contribute to optimal skin hydration, specifically designed to reduce the visible signs of aging. One of the important objectives was to evaluate the skin’s compatibility and topography after 28 days (D28) of regular use of the developed cream.
Stability testing, physicochemical properties and microbiological control, including testing the effectiveness of the preservative used (challenge test) were performed for the cosmetic formulation.
In silico approaches were used to demonstrate the safety of cosmetic-related ingredients and to assess the risk of cosmetic formulations. Safety assessment and a tool to demonstrate the skin tolerance – compatibility and efficacy, respectively – of the developed anti-aging cream were performed. As a result, the quality control of the developed cosmetic formulation indicated a suitable cosmetic product with desirable aspect and sufficient physicochemical properties.
The concentration of restricted substances such as preservatives and UV filters was in accordance with the values recommended by Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and was therefore considered safe. Furthermore, according to the calculation of the margin of safety (MoS2), the cosmetic ingredients in the developed formulation can be considered safe. The developed formulation was very well tolerated and the depth and length of wrinkles in the periorbital area were significantly reduced after 28 days of cosmetic treatment. Subject evaluation questionnaires revealed self-perceived benefits with reference to the cosmetic quality and effectiveness of the anti-aging cream. This study confirmed the skin tolerance and effectiveness of the new complex anti-aging cream containing HA, microencapsulated sodium hyaluronate, ectoine and a plant extract. This formulated cosmetic product can act as a daily care for mature skin to reduce the effects of skin aging.
Optimal health involves improving the appearance of aging skin, with the main aim of reducing unattractive aspects from an aesthetic point of view, and now using safer and more effective cosmetic ingredients and products.
In this study, the results confirmed an acceptable cosmetic product with an optimal appearance and suitable physicochemical properties, according to the stability test and physicochemical properties. Microbiological control, including the effectiveness test of the preservative used (challenge test), was also confirmed for the developed formulation.
A risk assessment was carried out to assess the safety of the cosmetic with the help of in silico approaches. The concentrations of the restricted substances – phenoxyethanol – as a preservative and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane as a UVA filter – included in the formulation were in accordance with the values recommended by Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and were therefore considered safe and approved.
The combination of HA with various active ingredients in this new anti-aging cream improved skin texture after 28 days of cosmetic treatment. As a result, clinical evaluation of an anti-aging cream containing LMW-HA, encapsulated NaHA, ectoine, 22 kJ microcapsules and a plant extract showed an overall improvement in the condition of the skin around the eyes, a significant reduction in the length and depth of wrinkles. This experimental formulation was highly evaluated by the test subjects in terms of efficacy and product characteristics and was very well tolerated. This complex cream could further contribute to the ongoing treatment of mature skin.
Further research could maintain risk assessment and provide an optimal basis for healthy skin aging and cosmetics that can block or reverse negative epigenetic changes.
